Leaving the sacred town of Pushkar, we clambered onto a train which looked like something from the 1960s – open doors, shuttered windows and uncomfortable benches. It was riotous, with people jumping onto the train as it was moving, people selling Domino’s pizza and strange keyrings with zips on. One man sat next to us produced two giant suitcases and two huge backpacks out of nowhere when he had to get off the train. It wasn’t too uncomfortable though, thanks to the tonnes of fans attached to the ceiling. Five hours later, we arrived in Udaipur, the Lake City.